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 12-03-2004, 11:27 Post: 101499
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

Anyone know how to install vinyl siding on a pole building without having the nails protruding through the SOB into he wall cavity?






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 12-03-2004, 17:32 Post: 101522
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

Whattype of sheathing is on the building? Thickness? Solid
wall or straping?

======================
7/16 OSB
Solid






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 12-04-2004, 03:14 Post: 101550
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

But with a pole building it's different.






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 12-04-2004, 03:38 Post: 101553
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

Ibrown; I guess I was too tired to be thinking straight last evening.
Yes a pole building is different,
*the nails must have been lioned up with the studs,
============================
*That's the point I was trying to make A pole building don't have any studs so the siding NAILS can't be lined up with the studs so the result is you end up with hundreds of nails sticking out into the wall cavity.

What I'm looking for is ideas on how to put vinyl siding on a pole building without nails sticking through into the open wall cavity.







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 12-09-2004, 12:16 Post: 101961
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

I used to sell vinyl siding a while back for Norandex (now owned by Owenings Corning).
kubotaguy
====================
Vinyl siding sheets are only 10" high so there is no way to line up the top nailing edge with the 24" on center horizontal purloins of a pole barn.
What is needed is 24' high vinyl siding sheets to enable nailing the vinyl siding to the center of the purloins.






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 12-09-2004, 12:22 Post: 101964
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

I guess I'm saying a lot of dumb things lately. I did go look at my building today. Yes the siding nails don't show thru because the siding is nailed in line with the studs on 16 in. centers.
Frank.
[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[
But you can't do this if you were to run the studs horizontal rather than vertical as in a pole barn.






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 12-09-2004, 13:05 Post: 101971
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

1* What is the spacing between framing members?
2*You should be able to fasten the siding thru the OSB into the studs (or poles) without worry about protruding nails
3*BTW, why does it concern you to have protruding nails in the stud bays?
4*Are you planning on leaving the interior of the stud bays unenclosed?
Ardician
.===============.
1*Instead of having vertical studs spaced 24 inches on center I have horizontal purloins spaced 24 inches on center.
2*There aren't any studs in a pole barn because horizontal purloins replace studs.
Even if you were to nail the siding only in line with the poles you would still have the nail protruding problem because the osb is one and one half inches out from the poles due to the 2x4 purloins attached to the post.
3*Makes it difficult to run wiring inside the wall cavity - doin.t like the idea of mixing electrical wires with sharp pointed objects.
Makes it hard to finish the inside because the nails are in the way of installing paneling OSB or other covering such as wall board, etc.
Just seems to me the protuding nails are a sloppy obbed up way to do a job.
4*You can't leave the inside of the stud bays unenclosed with hundreds of sharp pointed nails sticking out.






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 12-10-2004, 13:09 Post: 102057
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding


Sounds like vertical strapping on the outside, 16" OC.
Grinder
===============
I think I figured out a way to nail the vinyl siding to a pole building without any nails sticking out.
1*Run the osb horizontally and nail it to the Purloins using nails that aren't long enough go clear thought the OSB and the purloins
2*From the inside place either a 2x2 or a 2x4 vertically between each of the purloins from the top to the bottom of the wall. Do this every 24' on center from one end of the wall to the other.
3**Next mark the 24'' centers on the outside of the OSB.
4*Now nail the siding on at the marked 24 inch centers again bring sure the nails are shorter than the combined thickness of the osb and the 2 bys.
The nails used to attach the osb to the purloins should work for this as well.

Some side notes
You could go 16 inch centers rather than 24' centers.

The vertical 2 bys don't have to be permanently attached to the purloins as the siding nails will permanently attach them to the OSB.
Just toe nail them into the purloins on each end leaving the nail heads out far enough so that you can easily pull them after the siding is installed.
Another take on this would be to use a 2x4 notched out from top to bottom for the purloins then nail it through the notches into the purloins.
Again place these 24 or 16 inches on center your option.

The purpose of the 2 bys is to serve as covers or caps over the nail points not as part of the structural framing of the building. That has been taken care of by the post and the purloins.

Wish I would have done something like this on my building.
It's already built with all those hundreds of nails sticking out. Now I have to deal with the problem of how to fix the mess.

I can see it's a lot easier and better to prevent the problem that it is to fix it.






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 12-17-2004, 11:47 Post: 102430
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

1* I didn't know you already had the problem of the protruding nails, but thought you were trying to avoid it
2* If it were my pole barn, I would just slap OSB on the interior of the purloins, which would cover the nails in the spaces and give you an interior wall covering.
3* I, for one, would like to hear what you decide to do. Good luck.
Ardician
===============
1*Actually I was trying to do both.
Prevent others from making the same mistake that was maid on mine and also was looking for ideas on how to correct the problem of the protruding nails in mine.
I think I came up with a way to avoid the problem of the protruding nails when building the building; see my post number 102057 in this thread.
However I haven't totally resolved the problem of the already protruding nails in my building.
2*That is what I planed to do on the left half of the building but I would prefer
eliminating the nails so I can run the wiring in the cavity behind the OSB rather than on the interior surface of the OSB.I also was thinking of insulating the cavity with a spray foam type insulation.
3* I think I will use some sort of a cut off tool to cut off the nails that are sticking through the 2x4 purloins.
As for the siding nails protruding through the OSB I could cut them off also, but I'm not sure that would be a wise thing to do on them as I'm concerned that the cut off nails might work back out of the OSB and loosen the vinyl siding.
Anybody have any ideas on that-Will the siding still stay on tight or not if I cut off those nails.











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 12-17-2004, 18:53 Post: 102449
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

If you are thinking of foaming it why bother?
I would put my wiring in first on the inside and then foam it.
********
Because there are so many nails it makes it hard to keep the wires out of them and if you try to use conduit you can't get it around the nails.






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 12-18-2004, 07:55 Post: 102474
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding

1*Could you run your wires along the purlins and just
break or grind off the nails that are in the way?
2How much insulation do you need?
Grinder
======
1*No because the inside OSB goes flat against the purlins.
2*1.5 inches from the inside of the interior OSB to the inside of the purlins.
This is also the space I need to run the wiring in, but it's full of protruding nails from the vinyl siding nails.
I can cut off the nails penetrating through the purlins.
I guess I could cut off any siding nails in the way of running the wiring along the top or bottom of the purlins and leave the others. But if I foam the walls and ever have to get into the cavity there is still all those hidden protruding nails to deal with. At least before you foam the walls. you can see where they are but once you spray the foam you've lost that advantage.






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 12-22-2004, 06:20 Post: 102701
lbrown59

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 vinyl siding



On the inside I knocked all the nails down flat against the plywood.
funchy
====================
Did you have to do that on the purloins too or did you use nails to attach the plywood to the purloins that were short enough that they did not penetrate through the purloins ?
Bending or clinching the nails through plywood may be OK but I don't have plywood I used OSB instead.
Since OSB is much softer than plywood I'm afraid if I clinch the nails it will pull the siding out of line and cause it to buckle or become wavy.

























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